Intelligence Archive

The Marni Riddle

MILAN, Italy — Consuelo Castiglioni’s decision to step down “for personal reasons” from the creative helm of the brand that she co-founded left many Marni supporters puzzled. On October 21, the day of the announcement, Arthur Arbesser, one of Milan’s next generation of designers, went so far as to reference a “dark and confusing day on planet fashion.” There is, surely, more to the story. …

BoF Exclusive | Victoria Beckham Partners With Target

NEW YORK, United States — Victoria Beckham celebrated two five-year milestones in 2016. This year marked five years since the birth of her daughter Harper and five years since the birth of her playful second line, Victoria, Victoria Beckham. So it seems natural that the two would serve as points of inspiration for her latest project, a limited-edition collection for Target set to launch April …

BlackRock Increases Stake in World’s Biggest Jewellery Retailer

HONG KONG, China — One of the worst analyst-rated jewellery retailers in Hong Kong has caught the attention of the world’s largest asset manager. BlackRock Inc. increased its stake in Chow Tai Fook Jewellery Group Ltd., and added the stock to its global long/short equity fund in the third quarter, according to data compiled by Bloomberg. European investment firms Gamax Management AG and Robeco Groep NV …

Luxury Loungewear is No Slouch

LONDON, United Kingdom — Not too long ago, loungewear meant tired tracksuit bottoms and worn-out sweatshirts — strictly to be worn indoors, with the curtains firmly closed. But in recent seasons, loungewear has been given the luxury treatment, with tailored jogging bottoms at Céline and Chloé, and tracksuits rendered in cashmere by the likes of Brunello Cucinelli, The Elder Statesman and Olivia von Halle. Vetements …

In Stagnant Market, Luggage Brands Roll On

LONDON, United Kingdom — In the first four months after it launched, luggage brand Raden made around $2 million worth of sales from its website and Manhattan showroom. The company, which sells just two sizes of luggage in a range of different colours, is on track to meet its target of $12 million in sales for its first nine months, according to founder and chief executive …

Will Anthropologie Win Where Traditional Department Stores Have Failed?

PHILADELPHIA, United States — Walking into an Anthropologie store is a sensory experience, incomparable in its visual richness and tactile quality to that of most other retailers. An ode to the cultured bohemian, a rainbow of floral-etched serving bowls might be stacked on a found-wooden table, a suite of turquoise-accented flatware laid out nearby. Just steps away, next to a velvet armchair piled with hand-woven …

Where Have All the Unicorns Gone?

LONDON, United Kingdom — Privately-held start-ups valued at $1 billion or above were once as rare as unicorns, hence the label widely used for such companies in Silicon Valley and beyond. But in 2015, unicorns weren’t such an uncommon beast. In fashion alone, Warby Parker, Farfetch and Rocket Internet-backed Global Fashion Group earned a valuation of $1 billion or above for the first time last …

How ‘See Now, Buy Now’ Is Rewiring Creativity

NEW YORK, United States — Fourteen campaign images. Six videos. A string of celebrity portraits. All in one day. “It was a large list of deliverables,” says photographer Inez van Lamsweerde, who, along with partner Vinoodh Matadin, was tasked with turning around all of the above in less than 24 hours. The client? Tom Ford, who staged an in-season runway show at New York Fashion …

The 10 Commandments of New Consumerism

LONDON, United Kingdom — For decades, a brand’s only priority was to create the best possible product at the most competitive price to ensure sales. But as consumers develop a more comprehensive understanding of issues like sustainability, authenticity and transparency, brands and retailers are being forced to change the way they sell in order to survive. This change in consumers’ attitudes has a term — …

The Unlikely Success of Virgil Abloh

PARIS, France — “There is a new guard of designers that represent the luxury culture,” says Bosse Myhr, director of menswear and technology at British department store Selfridges. At the top of the list, alongside Shayne Oliver of Hood By Air and Demna Gvasalia of Vetements, is Virgil Abloh, the longtime creative consultant to Kanye West, whose streetwear-inspired, Milan-based label Off-White has attracted fans from …